Itinerary
Arrive at the international airport in India’s capital, steeped in centuries of layered history, and transfer to our luxury hotel in the high-tech suburb of Gurgaon outside the city center. This elegant contemporary low-rise hotel is surrounded by seven acres of gardens, courtyards and reflecting pools, lending a resort-like ambience. This evening, join our Expedition Leader for a welcome dinner and preview of our journey into the Indian Himalaya and the realm of Panthera uncia, the snow leopard.
Day 2: Delhi / Leh, Ladakh
Early this morning, we fly north to the former Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh. This is one of India’s least-populated regions, known for dramatic peaks, monasteries filled with golden Buddhas, and the elusive snow leopards that prowl the snowfields that blanket these dry, rocky mountainsides. Once we touch down at 11,500 feet in the capital city of Leh, our high-altitude acclimatization begins. For centuries, Leh was a crossroads for Indus Valley trade between Tibet, Kashmir, India and China—routes that carried salt, cashmere wool, indigo and silk. The local people are ethnic Tibetans who speak Ladakhi, and Buddhism and Islam have co-existed peacefully here since the 8th century. Our lodging in the heart of this ancient city sits in the shadow of an unoccupied 17th-century palace designed to evoke the Dalai Lama’s former residence in Lhasa—the famous Potala Palace. As we settle in and adjust to the elevation, we’ll visit the Snow Leopard Conservancy. Learn about looming threats to this top predator, and conservation strategies to protect this vulnerable species that also serves as an important indicator of the health of its lofty habitat.
Day 3: Leh—Indian Himalaya Photography
Today we travel into Leh's rural surroundings, exploring the rugged Indus River Valley. It's easy to see why this enclave at the northern tip of India is often called “Little Tibet,” as we cross passes marked with colorful prayer flags beneath soaring Himalayan peaks. As we climb up this crennelated region where the Indian and Asian continents collided, be on the lookout for blue sheep, golden eagles and bearded vultures.
We stop in Gya, one of the oldest villages in Ladakh that is perched on a gorge overlooking the river. A contingent of villagers greets us with a traditional welcome before leading us on a guided tour of their colorful town. We learn about animal husbandry, handicrafts and textiles, along with traditional barley roasting and cooking. Archery is an important element of traditional Ladakh life, and we stop at a range where we have the opportunity to witness archers in their element—and to participate! After a traditional lunch in a local home, we set out on foot with our guide to explore the picturesque landscape. Here we have a high likelihood of seeing more birdlife and blue sheep. We return to Leh by late afternoon.
Days 4–9: Snow Leopard Photography from Rumbak—Private Expedition Lodge
The heart of our adventure begins in the village of Rumbak, where our private expedition lodge is located.From this base, we'll spend six nights tracking and photographing snow leopards. To reach the lodge, we follow the Indus River, stopping to visit the Stakna Buddhist Monastery, built in the 16th century and whose name means “tiger’s nose,” a reference to the shape of the hill on which it was built. We breakfast with the monks before continuing up the Indus River Valley toward Rumbak and our expedition base. This region is the gateway to a high-altitude realm ruled by the “ghost of the mountains”—a name bequeathed upon the snow leopard for its solitary and elusive nature. As we drive, be on the lookout for ibex, noted for their magnificent horns, standing vigil over rocky outcrops and couloirs.
Recently constructed using traditional Ladakhi techniques and materials, including stone, mud and timber, all chosen for their natural insulating properties, ours is the most luxurious lodge in the region. Blending seamlessly into its surroundings, it features radiant floor heating, abundant running hot water and double-glazed windows for an intimate and warm experience.
Over the next six days, we search the alpine heights for snow leopards in and around Hemis National Park, which holds the highest density of snow leopards in any protected area in the world—about 200. These trans-Himalayan cats have evolved to thrive in some of Earth’s harshest alpine terrain, mostly above tree line and up to 18,000 feet in elevation. Our base for exploration is a private ecolodge set on a plateau with unimpeded views of the snowcapped mountains and Rumbak River below. The nearby village of Rumbak, population 250, is a short walk away. The surrounding landscape provides habitat for three large ungulates—ibex, bharal (blue sheep) and urial (mountain sheep)—along with fox, hare, pika and packs of Tibetan wolves.
For our best chance to see snow leopards, we rely on the expertise and keen eyes of a team of local spotters, plus our naturalist Expedition Leader. These seasoned trackers scour the landscape early each morning to help us plan our route for the day and increase our luck of seeing these cats whose camouflage enables them to blend in seamlessly with their habitat. We also retain radio contact with trackers throughout the day, so we know when snow leopards wander into our area. Private vehicles maximize our flexibility to move to where the snow leopards are. Typically, we spot them on high ridges around our lodge or within a short walk from the vehicles, but longer hikes are available for those who desire.
Snow leopards have evolved to thrive in some of Earth’s harshest alpine terrain, mostly above tree line and up to 18,000 feet in elevation, across the Himalayas. Typically, we spot them atop a high ridgeline, when a long lens is a necessity. On other occasions, we are graced with closer sightings, sometimes even around the lodge, which offers a cozy respite for warming up with hot chai between photography outings. The surrounding sheer cliffs and broad meadows provide habitat for three large ungulates—bharal, ibex and urial—along with fox, hare, pika and packs of Himalayan wolves. In the valley's narrowest reaches, steep walls and side streams sustain a healthy population of ibex that lures snow leopards, which are capable of killing prey up to three times their own weight.
Our nearest neighbors in Rumbak are warm and welcoming. Nearby are intriguing Ladakhi cultural sites like Buddhist temples and monasteries that we visit if time allows.
At every turn, photo opportunities abound, whether wildlife, landscapes or cultural settings. In the evenings, our Expedition Leader hosts workshops and editing sessions to help you take your photography to the next level.
Day 10: Rumbak / Leh
After breakfast, enjoy a final morning in scenic Rumbak, relishing our last chance to photograph this alpine domain. Later, say farewell to our gracious Ladakhi hosts whose lodge enterprise is enhancing protection for snow leopards through ecotourism. The cats face threats from habitat loss due to climate change, reduced prey, poaching and human conflict, and we leave knowing we have made a difference for their future with our economic contribution and our advocacy. In Leh we attend a private culinary immersion at a local Ladakhi kitchen. Later this evening, we share our reflections over a farewell dinner.
Day 11: Leh / Delhi / Depart
Fly from Leh to Delhi this morning and continue to our hotel where an overnight room is reserved. A lavish lunch awaits at the hotel, followed by time to relax among landscaped gardens and pools. A transfer to the international airport is included to meet departing flights this evening.